Saturday, August 7, 2010

August 7th - Once Upon a Time in Mumbai....there was an American named Julia

Today was my last official day as an employee of the Leela Hotel! I am sad to be leaving, but I am ready to come home. For my last day, I spent the morning in the Chinese and Thai kitchen learning some techniques and then the afternoon tying up loose ends with the Hotel.

While I was working in the Chinese and Thai kitchen I was put on seafood duty – believe me, it was not as glamorous as it sounds. I learned how to clean a fish with the scales still on, de-bone a fish, gut a fish, clean prawns, kill a crab and a lobster, gut a lobster of the meat, and search for the rouĂ©. By the end of the morning I smelled pretty disgusting. The chefs in the kitchen taught me a pretty awesome trick to make your hands stop smelling of whatever it is they smell of: take a handful of salt and half a lemon – rub the two together on your hands, almost mashing them together. Do this for about two minutes, then rinse off with soap and water, then poof the smell is gone!

The head chef from the Chinese kitchen was from Singapore and was very enthusiastic about me receiving hands on work experience in his kitchen. Chef Ho was also very chatty, even telling me about the “Julia” tattoo that he had on his upper are – I saw it, it did say Julia. Chef Ho asked me if I knew anyone from Singapore and I almost started to laugh. All I can think of when asked about Singapore is “Richard from Singapore” (family joke – if you’re not a Murphy, don’t worry you shouldn’t get it).

Chef Ho asked me if I was pretty grossed out by the condition of the country compared to the US, and of course in the nicest way possible I said yes. He then continued to say, “if you feel grossed out can you imagine what I feel like coming from the cleanest country in the world?” Now I am not sure this is true, but I am pretty sure States like Vermont and Colorado are as clean as they get. Chef Ho then went on a rant on how he needs to teach others because the people of Singapore are so far ahead in the world and they feel it is the duty to teach others. Now, this is very nice, but just because you’re from Singapore does that mean you know more than me?

While I was learning how to gut a crab, one of the sous chefs started to talk to me. He was really nice and, like almost ever Indian I have met, asked me if I speak Hindi. I replied no I wish I did! He then asked if I spoke any other languages, I said just enough French to get by! I shot the question right back at him and he said three: English, Hindi, and Marathi (Mumbai’s local tongue) and that he had to study French as a foreign language in school. I was a little surprised and asked him why English didn’t count as his foreign language. I was very surprised to hear that his FIRST language is English, he learned Hindi in 4th grade, and Marathi from his mother through conversation. He told me that most Indians are now learning English before Hindi – but everyone knows both. Indians are learning English first?! English is taking over the world – maybe that is why they are calling it the international language. But still, I was so surprised, Indians learn it before their national language?! The accents are so difficult to understand, but I guess it goes the same way for me.

Once I arrived home from work, I didn’t say my goodbyes yet because I have to go in again on Monday to hand in some items and show off my new Sari skills and Mehndi, Heer and I ventured off to pick off the final pieces of the Saris. When we got back, Heer and I went to see “Aisha,” a Bollywood movie. We were supposed to see “Once Upon a Time in Mumbai,” but it is like an Indian Godfather. Both movies are in Hindi, which mean I cannot understand it, but that is part of the experience! Heer loves dancing and singing, Aisha was the right film to see! Tomorrow, after I get my Henna (mehndi) done, I am going to go watch “Once Upon a Time in Mumbai” by myself. The movies here only cost $1.75 a seat!! The volume is SO loud in Bollywood movies, but the clothing and dance was just amazing to watch.

It was so funny, even though the movie was in Hindi, the script was still partially in English. Every ten minutes or so there would be a dialogue in English! Because of this I was able to follow the plotline pretty well and loved the movie. In India, you can order your food to come to your seat at a certain time of the movie (seeing that a shorter movie in India is 2 ½ hours minimum, long ones can go as far as 4 hours). Heer and I ordered chilli cheese popcorn, fresh corn husks with masala and lime, hot samosas, and pepsi all for a bargin price of $2 USD - not shabby.

Indians are not very shy to ask you about your personal life. Granted there are a few exceptions, but for the most part there is nothing too private not to ask about. I have been asked about my age, weight, salary, “class,” cost of University, and cost of personal items. Money is always mentioned, if they like what you are wearing instead of saying, “I love your dress!” they will say, “How much was that dress?” Another difference I have found since arriving is the use of the word “yeah.” It is slang, but many Indians will tag the word “yeah” at the end of sentences like Americans would use “man” or “bro.” For example, “I really want to get lunch yeah” or “I love your shirt yeah.” I was so confused at first, but I even slipped up today and used it – remind me once I arrive home NOT to say it!

The way Indians speak in general, as in their tone, is so different from Americans. I really believe that everyone was yelling at me when I first arrived, but that is just how Indians speak – loudly and defensively. To me, I believe they are yelling but really they are just speaking.

After the movie, I stopped by the store to purchase one last masala to bring home. I found it so funny that on the boxed spice they were advertising that it is hygienic. Wow. Especially after working in the kitchens here, it is hard to eat the food. Veg vs Non-Veg just means that there is no meat on your plate, that doesn’t meat or meaty hands have not touched your food. Raw chicken has no boundaries – even when tasting a marinade, if it is raw chicken you still must taste it. Washing your hands is not common, most kitchens don’t even have soap at the sink – what good does just water do? But someone told me that these unhygienic ways of cooking is what makes the food taste so good. I am so happy someone told me this. While I still think twice before I pop something in my mouth, I understand this IS India, it IS dirty, and this food ISN’T perfect but it is delicious. I have to accept this the way it is and just enjoy the food for the time I have left here. Which I have been trying to get my hands on as much of my favorite as possible.

My mystery fruit yesterday? It is called custard-apple in English and Sharifa in Hindi. I do not think this is available in the US but it is so amazing. These heart shaped fruits, with an unusual skin that looks like scales or even an artichoke and are rather ugly. Heer taught me that the method to select these fruits is when their skin develops brown patches they are ripe and delicious. You eat Sharifa in a similar way that you eat a Pomegranate – you must take one small piece at a time. The pieces are white and you must suck the outside layer of flesh off the black kidney bean-sized seed on the inside and then spit out the seed. There are about 50 seeds in each fruit and it tastes like a sweet banana and mango combination – I just love it.

When I was at the store, I discovered something amazing: Maggie. Maggie is the Indian version of “Cup of Noodles” that costs barely 15 rupees and will fill you up. The Indians of course put a twist on the dull college student favorite by adding masala and other spices to the noodles. They are nice and spicy and have a delicious flavor, I am not sure I can enjoy Cup of Noodles the same again, I’ll have to reach for some masala and red chilli! Which, by the way, my palate has DEFFINITELY changed in a good way. My spice (hot and flavorful) tolerance has gone up so much, jalapenos have nothing on me. I might even need to start carrying Tabsco around in my purse! I also picked up some Indian Ginger Beer – my favorite soda of all time, an no it is not Ginger Ale. O MAN was it good. Obviously because I am in India it tastes differently, but there was so much fresh ginger chunks in the soda that it was almost too spicy to drink, but that is what makes it so great.

Speaking of which, I have finally figured out why people stare at me when I drink so much water at lunch: you do not drink DURING you meal in India. Indians believe that if you drink water while eating you will not be able to eat as much as you possibly can – duhhh that is the point! Unlike Americans, most Indians are trying to gain weight. Because of this, no water is served with meals, only after. And to make sure your stomach can absorb as much of the water as possible it is served at room temperature. Indians believe that cold water is bad for the body. No ice water at dinner? This is the first Indian eating habit that I must disagree with – I still love the hands as utensils though!!


1. My new pet! Just kidding, but it is the sparrow I talk to every morning (Mom, I will teach you Sparrow once I return home) and he lives with his wife in my windowsill
2. GINGER BEER -- non-alcoholic don't worry
3. Maggie!
4. Street flowers



Friday, August 6, 2010

August 6th - Bread Winner

Today was pretty uneventful from the start. I woke a little late, but was able to make it to work in about 5 minutes – the first time since arriving to India that I was thrilled to have a crazy rickshaw driver. I quickly changed into my chef uniform and hurried off to my next assignment – the Tandoori kitchen and bread station! Now, this was the INDIAN bread station, I am now a pro at what to order with what dish and how to make it from scratch. Makki di roit, chapatti, naan, dosa, pouri – you name it, I tried it and made it today!

I need started to learn abouyt tandoori. I again asked if I could copy down the recipes and was allowed to continue my wonderful recipe scribbling. I started to write and realized, why not ask if I can take photos? Again, they said yes! I was taking pictures while hurrying to write the recipes before they moved onto the next dish.

Tandoori is cooked in a metal pot that is roughly 250 degrees Celsius HOT! There are main spices, like in the curry station, but the spices are different. The majority of the flavor comes from chilli powder and cumin seeds – and maybe some masalas. The chefs kept making me eat and try the lamb, chicken, paneer – they even made me eat some raw lamb. I couldn’t really say “no,” so I tried it, and that was al I needed.

Once done with the kitchen, I was paid for my work! Not very much according to American standards, but I was getting evil looks from other employees here in India. After work, Heer and I went to go spend my money at the market! The tailor was sick and would finish the blouses tomorrow – annoying. But we continued on and I purchased bread and tandoori making materials essential to the kitchen (a round aluminum pot) and some adorable bags that must be worn with saris.

I told Heer I wanted to buy some fruit, and she suggested her favorite. Till today, I thought that artichoke was in season here in India because at every fruit stand I see artichoke! Little did I know that this “artichoke” is a delicious Indian exotic fruit that is very rare and fragile. Heer taught me how to eat this fruit, and tomorrow I will go into more detail about the name and what you must do. For now, I am so tired that I have to go to bed. TOMORROW IS MY LAST DAY OF OFFICAL WORK I really cannot believe that this experience is almost over.

1. how the bread is cooked! I learned an alternative method instead of the pot (don't worry we can make it at home!)
2. Me in the kitchen!
3. Dinner! I mix of all stret food, but from a hygienic location
4. Mystery fruit...any help?
5. BAGS





Tandoori Kitchen!

Tandoor Lamb

  • Place lamb rack in a bowl (sliced)
  • Mix together half part papaya paste, 1 part garlic-ginger paste, lots of salt, 1 part red chilli powder, splash of malt vinegar to make the mixture wet, half part cumin seed
  • Once fully combined, add 1 part curd to the mixture. Make sure to rub the curd into the chicken getting rid of any clumps.
  • Add half part garam masala, half part red chilli powder, and handful of oil. Mix well
  • Grill

Lamb Sheekah Kebab

  • Mix together ground lamb, ½ part salt, 1 part red chilli powder, ½ garam masala, ¼ part cumin seeds, ½ part thyme, equal parts fresh ginger and fresh garlic, splash of saffron water
  • Mold mixture around a metal skewer with damp hands – put on the grill
  • ¾ the way done with cooking, coat the kebah in oil
  • Serve with fresh onion, mint, cilantro – top with chaat masala, lemon, and melted butter

Chicken Sheekah Kebab

  • Mix together ground chicken, ½ part salt, 1 part yellow chilli powder, ¼ part cumin seeds, ½ part thyme, equal parts fresh ginger and fresh garlic, splash of saffron water
  • Mold mixture around a metal skewer with damp hands – put on the grill
  • ¾ the way done with cooking, coat the kebah in oil
  • Serve with fresh onion, mint, cilantro – top with chaat masala, lemon, and melted butter

Paneer Tikka

  • In a bowl mix lots of curd with 1 part yellow chilli powder, ½ haloi powder, ½ part roasted chana, handful of oil, 1 part garlic-ginger paste – mix well
  • Add ½ part cream and ½ part thyme – mix well
  • Add chopped paneer (or tofu), lots of fresh lemon juice
  • Mix in fresh chopped onion, bell pepper, tomato (no seeds)
  • Add yellow chilli powder, cumin seeds, and roasted chana – skewer by alternative veg to paneer and grill!

Chicken Tikka

  • In a bowl combine chicken breast, salt, 2 parts red chilli powder, 1 part cumin seed, 2 parts garam masala, 2 parts roasted chana, 1 part black salt, 2 parts lemon juice, 1 part garlic ginger paste, and ½ part oil
  • Mix well and add 2 parts curd. Mush curd into chicken so no clumbs. Grill and enjoy

Murgh Kalongi Kebab

  • In a bow mix chicken breast, salt, ½ part haloi powder, 1 part yellow chilli powder, ½ part black salt, 1 part cumin seeds, 1 part garam masala, 1 part garlic-ginger paste, and ½ part oil – mix well
  • Add 1 part curd and roasted chana – grill and enjoy

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Chef from the North Country

* Notice the titles. I have been stuck in years long ago here - Indians taste is music is not really u to date. I have yet to hear Bob Dylan (play on above), but 80's hip hop and 90's boy bands are ALL the rage. Just wanted to explain my new titles! GO BELOW FOR RECIPES


Again I was in the kitchen! Chef told me that I was to be in hygiene today. I agreed and started to walk to the department. I then realized – Julia, no! So I politely asked Chef: “Chef, can I work in the Indian kitchens the next three days?” He was shocked and said, “I didn’t know you wanted to work in the Indian kitchens!” What a great example of miscommunication.

Chef then brought me over to the curry station of the Indian kitchen. My Dad always asks a great and funny question (not seriously, yet wanting a real answer): “what do Indians say when they go out for Indian food? What to go out for food?” But in India there is no such thing as “Indian” Food; rather, food is divided by region. India is so vast and diverse that each state has its own specialty and cuisine.

I was in the curry station. Like in bakery, few of the chefs spoke English – or admitted they did because they were too shy. I was introduced to a chef that admitted he spoke English and he quickly became my buddy for the day. Chef started to show me two delicious looking recipes and I was trying to remember every detail, but because everything is so new everything was blending together! I knew I couldn’t let this opportunity pass me by and I politely asked Chef if he would mind if I wrote down the recipes. Chef was shocked! He was so happy to hear I had a genuine interest in learning about Indian food that he told the other chefs. They could not believe that this white girl wanted to learn how to make Indian food!

I was so happy by their enthusiasm, but I was even happier that I was going to gain all this knowledge. Chef went back and retold me the first two recipes before continuing on to the third. Each dish, chef had me try and tell him if it needed anything. Some dishes were SO spicy (flavorful) and some were truly delicious.

When my new chef friend had to leave for his lunch break, I was passed onto another chef from Delhi! He was great and really loved going into detail about the cuisine. We were talking and he asked where I was from, I, obviously, replied the United States. The chefs all looked up at me with aw and one – who hadn’t peeped a word of English yet – said, “but then why are you in India?” I laughed and said it was a wonderful and unique experience that I was very happy to have.

My new chef friend, Chef Ahmed, told me he had some friends in the US. I ask him if he ever wanted to go to the US, he said yes and I told him that he has to visit them while they still live there! He told me that he tried, but was rejected for a visa. I was so surprised because everyone has been telling me how easy it has become to get an American tourist visa. He then continued to say it was because he was Muslim. Awkward silence crept through the kitchen. I felt bad, but didn’t know what to say. Ahmed said that both the UK and the US reject his visa application purely because he is Muslim. Again, I didn’t know what to say.

Next thing I know, the awkward silence was broken – Chef Ahmed sneezed. Before I could realize it I was speaking. For two minutes of awkward conversation I couldn’t think of anything to say and then before I knew it I was speaking: “Goddddd…” o no. O NO. why? Why did my reaction have to come out now? I have learned since arriving in India that people do not say anything when others sneeze. The first openly Muslim person I have met in India I start to bless! I said “God” and knew I couldn’t just stop there, that would almost be worse. “….bless you” came out and we both, again, stood there in silence. Thankfully, we silently decided that I did not just say that and continued to talk about gravies.

Stop, it's Sari time - J.E. Murphy

After work, Heer and I went to pick up the Saris! There was so much traffic that we walked for a half an hour instead of taking a rickshaw – it was faster. Once I arrived I gave them the new measurements of Mom and Amelia and agreed that tomorrow by 7 pm they would be ready. I also purchased Mom some great fabric – attached picture.

I was so excited to learn how to wear a Sari! I knew it was going to be difficult, but BOY was it hard. You have to have sturdy hands and strong fingers. You must start by wearing the blouse and petticoat – the petticoat starting right below the belly button tied very tightly (the tighter the strong the sari will hold).

You then start on the right side and tuck a half inch of the Sari in the petticoat and continue around the entire body once. Keep tucking until you reach 2 inches from the belly button – then stop tucking. Pull the Sari fabric up and move until you hit the train (you will tell when you hit the train). Then tuck the area right before the train in 2 inches from the other side of the belly button.

Now this is the part that sets apart good Sari dresses from the rest: the folding. You start on the left 2 inch from the belly button. Hold the excess fabric between your pinky and thumb, loop it around your pointer and middle finger. Continue to do this until the excess fabric is fully folded (easier said than done). You must then TUCK the folded fabric into the petticoat. If the folds in the front touch the ground, pull out the newly tucked fabric and start again. A good fold will last all day.

You then take the train and wrap it around the side of your body – making sure it is tight and not twisted or folded. You want to start at where a love handle is, or if you’re lucky should lie. Then slowly creep up the back so when you come to the front the train it’s the left shoulder strap. You can either pin the train to the sari or leave it. Nicely fold the train over your arm – and you’re done!

Just kidding! You have to wear heels with a sari and learn how to walk in one. I know, ridiculous, and I really thought they were kidding with this once, but it is true. You must take small, slow steps that do not make the thighs rub or cross the legs. If you do make a step to wide or fast, the folds will come undone and you will show your petticoat (a floor length skirt) but still not fun. You can however pin the folds so they don’t come out, but you risk tearing the fabric.

And boy, don’t saris look great on everyone! Attached are photos of my complete Sari and Mom’s Sari with my makeshift blouse until tomorrow. More, and better photos, are still to come.






SpICE SpICE Baby

All recipes can be made veg or non-veg -- just supplement the veg item for your favorite meat, you the meat with tofu!

Chutneywali Godhi

  • Bring oil to a boil
  • Add whole cumin seeds – allow for the oil to crackle with the seed
  • Once crackling, add cauliflower heads, turmeric, salt, and garlic-ginger paste
  • Cover and allow to steam until cauliflower is fully cooked (you can add mushrooms, carrots, peas, and chopped string beans if desired)
  • Once the cauliflower is fully cooked, add enough green gravy to coat the cauliflower
  • Add red chilli powder, garam masala, crushed fenugreek (Indian spice found at specialty stores), salt, chunky chat masala (again, specialty store), and a dab of butter

Paneer Kahai

  • Bring oil to a boil and add finely chopped garlic, cook until brown
  • Add fresh bell pepper (all colors) and sautĂ©
  • Once the peppers have cooked slightly, add turmeric, red chilli powder, coriander, cumin, and chopped green chillis (only if you like it spicy)
  • Once the peppers are coated, add enough onion-tomato gravy to cover the peppers
  • Add slightly sautĂ©d paneer (a cottage cheese like ingredient, easily substituted with tofu or meat) that has soaked in warm water to make plump – bring to a boil and allow to simmer
  • Right before serving, add fresh chopped cilantro

Pulao Rice

  • Prepare to make normal white rice that is boiled in water but add green cardamom, black cardamom, bay leafs, cumin seeds, 5-star, and cinnamon stick.
  • Once rice has fully cooked, dripple saffron water (a few sprigs of saffron mixed with water) over the rice. Allow time to absorb before mixing – then only a few grains of rice will be that beautiful color!

Bhindi Masala

  • Melt butter
  • Add finally chopped garlic until golden brown
  • Add onion-tomato gravy, fresh green chilli, and fresh ginger – allow time to boil
  • Add chunky chat masala, garam masala, red chilli powder, and salt
  • semi cook vegetables of your choice
  • Add precooked vegetables to masala
  • Before serving, add fresh tomato, fresh cilantro, and lemon juice

Subzi Pulao

  • Bring butter to a boil
  • Add chopped string beans, peas, small cauliflower, carrots, fresh cilantro, and chopped onion
  • Once the vegetables are starting to cook, add saffron water
  • Add enough onion-tomato gravy to coat all vegetables
  • Add fully cooked rice and enjoy!

Chicken Tikka Makhani (Butter Chicken)

  • Bring butter, onion-tomato gravy, and chicken broth to a boil
  • Add salt, red chilli powder, garam masala, and fenugreek powder
  • Add more butter (it is butter chicken – come on!)
  • Add raw chicken – cook until chicken is done
  • Add cashew nut paste (or curd if allergic)

Rapita

  • In a bowl combine fresh chopped tomato, onion, and cucumber (all seeds removed)
  • Cover in curd with equal parts sugar and salt
  • Add toasted crushed cumin seeds
  • Serve cold

Nihari Gosht

  • Bring oil to a boil and add bay leafs, green coriander, black coriander, full black pepper, clove
  • Add chopped onion and garlic-ginger paste
  • Add raw lamb – sautĂ© until browned on the outside
  • In a spate bowl combine: red chilli powder, garam masala, cumin, fenugreek, turmeric, coriander, and water. Add enough water that the mixture turns into a paste, not too liquidy
  • Cover the lamb with the mixture
  • Add fresh chopped onions
  • Continue to cook until the surface of the pan is covered in extra oil, then add heated lamb broth
  • Once boiling, add fresh chopped mint, ginger, and green chillis
  • Remove the lamb
  • Add onion-ginger paste, aromatic masala (specialty store), mace, fennel, and cardamom
  • Squeeze on fresh lemon into the gravy – if on hand add rose and iris water (not essential)
  • REDUCE LIQUID – if you need help reducing, add some starch
  • Once reduced to a thick gravy, strain and add to lamb

Murgh Handi Lazeez

  • Bring oil to a boil – add equal parts coriander, turmeric, red chilli powder
  • Add equal parts ginger-garlic paste and water
  • Dash of salt
  • Add twice as much white gravy to mixture as they currently is – bring to a boil
  • Add onion paste (sautĂ©ed onion)
  • Add raw chicken
  • Put in crockpot or slow cook
  • Before serving, add saffron water and pinch of garam masala

GINGER-GINGER PASTE

  • 1 part fresh ginger
  • 2 parts fresh garlic
Peal and puree while adding water until smooth

SAFFRON WATER

  • A few sprigs of saffron with water. Mix until the water is bright orange.

GREEN GRAVY

  • Equal parts fresh spinach and cilantro
  • ¾ part fresh mint
Puree while adding water until smooth

WHITE GRAVY

  • Bring butter to a boil – add green cardamom, black cardamom, cinnamon sticks, bay leafs, 5-star, and clove
  • Once boiling, add cashew nut paste (3 parts milk to 1 part cashew – blend until smooth) – bring to a boil
  • Add 2 parts sugar to 1 part salt
  • REDUCE A LOT – must become very thick
  • Strain

ONION-TOMATO GRAVY

  • Bring a lot of oil to a boil - add green cardamom, black cardamom, cinnamon sticks, bay leafs, 5-star, black pepper, and clove
  • Add one part chopped onion (A LOT OF ONION) – cook while stirring constantly until onion is brown and dissolving
  • Strain half the oil from the onions
  • In another bowl make a paste: garlic-ginger paste, salt, red chilli powder, turmeric, coriander seeds, garam masala, crushed coriander, and crushed black pepper – add to pot
  • Bring mixture to a boil
  • Add equal part canned tomato (equal to onion)
  • Boil until reduced

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

August 4th - Cow is the new Squirrel

I almost over slept this morning! I was really lucky though because right when I hit the road I was able to catch a rickshaw. My luck grew even more when I was given my assignment for the day: BAKERY! I was really excited, but then I realized something: Americans use a different measuring system and baking is all about measurements.

When I arrived, I realized something else that put a small damper on the day: no one in the kitchen spoke English. Now normally I have been ok with being in the dark, but this was the first time I entered this kitchen, I was confused on the measuring system, and I did not know anyone in the room. It took about twenty minutes for me to understand my first assignment which was to make five trays of 90 fudge cookies (that is 450 cookies). This was a pretty easy task, but took me about 2 hours to complete. I was so happy to be done with it when they pulled out white looking dough and mimicked making balls of dough again and placed five trays in front of me.

After a long morning of making cookies, I finally found a chef that spoke English! Once I found him, I was not letting him out of my sight. I explained to him that I wanted to learn more about the bakery then just cookies, boy did I not know what was coming. He was so happy to hear this that he gave me a special assignment before lunch. I was to make chocolate cake! One catch, look at the recipe he gave me below:

  • 96 eggs
  • 3 kg of grain sugar
  • 20 gm of gel
  • 200 ml of water
  • 2.6 kg of flour
  • 400 gm cocoa powder
  • 90 gm of baker powder

Now, as Americans, what would you do if you were handed this recipe? First of all, 96 eggs?! Are you serious? I ended up making 18 cakes for the hotel, and I had a great time doing it – needless to say I can crack an egg like a pro now.

Once I filled the cake rings and placed the cakes in the over (and in the process had cake mix all over my uniform – see attached photo below) I was directed to my new favorite place in the hotel: the chocolate department.

Now, I am not a chocolate person, but this was amazing. I was literally making truffle chocolates. The other trainee that was with me in the chocolate department has NO idea what to do in a kitchen. Chef gave her a bowl of about 3 pounds of dark chocolate to melt saying to put 30 seconds then stir to make sure the chocolate doesn’t burn. 45 seconds later, the trainee returns saying the chocolate is still not melted and she doesn’t want to burn it – you can’t make this stuff up.

The chef then realized that I kind of understood what to do in a kitchen so he gave me more responsibility. Soon enough, after I melted the chocolate with burning it, I was upgraded to his assistant for the rest of the afternoon. I started to learn about how chocolate truffles are made: first a coating of chocolate, then adding the truffle, then more chocolate. I made about 200 chocolate truffles today – it was amazing! I was eating chocolate alllll day, yum!

I had a little extra time before running off to go art shopping, so I went to the bread department to learn about the breads. It was so cool. I learned about the different types of bread, how to mass produce them, and the chef even let me make the onion loaf! I mean, these people are crazy with the responsibility they are giving me.

After finding a beautiful painting of Lord Ganesha (the Indian Elephant God), Peggy and I celebrated with a traditional North Indian dinner. The dinner included chole (a chickpea curry that you eat with your fingers and bhatoors – North Indian fried bread very similar to poori) and my new favorite, pani poori! The dinner was so delicious and really nice and filling.

When driving home in the rickshaw (clearly where I do most of my reflections because I always mention rickshaws) I realized that Indian people are not really attached to their children. Now I understand that what I just said is a very strong and broad statement, but I believe for the majority of Indians it is true.

The traditional view of family by Indians is very strong. Indians say that their cousins are their siblings. That is right, Indians believe that your father and mother's children are your only siblings, that your cousins are your brother and sisters as well! That explains why Indians have such large families. They consider their first cousins AND second cousins as siblings, then third cousins are considered what Americans to see as cousins! That is crazy!

Weddings in India are HUGE so huge that you invite all your families family -- now keep going until you reach your 5th cousin. I asked how many people were in a small wedding: 500 guests! THAT IS HUGE imagine that bill? Then I asked how many guest were at a big wedding: 2,500 guest - o.m.g. I do not even know that many people. The engagement ceremony - where most brides meet their groom from the first time (arranged marriages are still the most common here, I was asked if I was going to have a love or arranged marriage. I laughed thinking it was a joke, whoops). The next ceremony, the wedding, is one month after and cannot be during the month of the bride or grooms birthday. Also, the wedding can never be held on the 13th.

Anyway, Indians have many children and large extended families. The children themselves have a sense of family, but really spend little time with them. The majority of children are rooming around with the friends, hand in hand. The children are free to go and do as they please. Now, the majority of the children I see doing this are in the lower class, but lets be honest that is the majority of Indians. There are children walking around at 10:30 pm with their friends like it is 9 am. They are chasing one another and almost getting hit by rickshaws! It is truly crazy.

Another thing I finally connected today while speaking with Peggy which cracked me up. The United States to squirrels and rabbits is India to cows, goats, and dogs. Seriously. Peggy and I started to talk about the condition of the streets and I asked her if the livestock had anything to do with the bad filth. She laughed and said that they do no damage, just like in New York. I couldn’t even hold it in this time, I just yelped with laughter. I explained that in New York City livestock do not live freely and are not even allowed. Peggy was SHOCKED. She really couldn’t believe that there are no cows or goats on the streets of New York.

Once I realized that this shocked her, I told her that stray dogs and cats are also absent in New York (to an extent, but seriously it is INSANE here). Again, she was shocked. She said she couldn’t imagine a place with no stray dogs running around. I explained how upsetting the dogs make me, again she was confused. “Why would that upset you?” I explained how I view animals almost like people! Especially when I see a dog that reminds me of a friends dog, or just a sweet looking one. My heart just breaks. Peggy still could not understand why the dogs on the street upset me.

That is when I realized that squirrels are like dogs to Indians: they have no owners yet people feed them, they run across the street yet no one hits them (most of the time), they really only come in three colors, and you would never touch one. When I told Peggy that in New York we had squirrels she was grossed out: “rodents” she said! RODENTS? You have livestock! Huge animals that poop and clutter the roads. But I realized, as weird as livestock is to me, squirrels are weird to Peggy.

It is just so funny to see the different areas of the world, something that is so normal to some people is an alternate reality to others.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

August 3rd - Some like it wet, I like it dry

I had a little trouble with my chef uniform this morning, but it all worked out! A nice woman in the locker room came over and helped me with my handkerchief. I then hurried upstairs to start my shift in the cold kitchen! At first, the chef in the cold kitchen was just having me OBSERVE again (seriously this term in haunting me). The chef told me I looked pale and asked if I wanted to take a break thirty minutes after arriving. I agreed and snuck off to the Training Center and napped for half an hour – this really saved me. I was really tired, and a power-nap was all I needed for the busy and active day ahead of me.

I understood where the chef was coming from having me observe in a 5-star kitchen, but I had to speak up. I told him that I would like to have an active part in the kitchen – and he let me! I think he tested me before giving me real responsibility, and the chef did this by having me chop bell peppers for an hour. I actually really enjoyed this, it was almost therapeutic. Once he looked over my work, he asked if I had worked in a kitchen before – duh! I told him about my time in Over the Moon and my love for cooking. The chef was happy and told me I was ready to really help.

I was then showed how to use the juicer – common knowledge, but still I had never done it before – and what combinations of fruit are the most liked. I personally enjoyed the mango-guava-pineapple the best, but apparently the banana-honey-milk is also very popular (with maybe a dash of rum).

I was then directed towards the back of the kitchen to help with the banquet service that was going on. We had to serve over 600 people and make tea sandwiches. I was in charge of the cheese and cucumber sandwiches – and made over 200 mini sandwiches. It was great though, I really learned how to design the presentation to make it look 5-star (obviously). I learned about veg and non-veg in more detail and how important it is for the differences to be made clear.

While making the tea sandwiches, I started to talk to the other chefs in the kitchen. After a while, one of them asked my name! I was surprised that I hadn’t told him and replied Julia. He looked so happy and said, “Julia, that’s an Indian name!” I laughed thinking he was clearly joking. He gave me a strange look and asked what was so funny. I told him the joke he just made, that “Julia” was Indian. He looked at me seriously and said, “Your name is an Indian name, an Indian-Catholic name.” Again, I started to laugh and tried to explain that it is a British-Irish name and the Catholics must have read or known a British-Irish Julia. I literally could not convince him otherwise.

Toilet paper: people think it is gross that I use it. I have to care it around in my purse because no one in this country (even the wealthy) use toilet paper. Instead, Indians use water – which is fine, but I need my toilet paper (or at least a leaf from the woods). I asked one of my friends, while she was teaching me how to use the Indian toilet, if and why Indians do not use toilet paper. She explained that the bathroom to Indians is very unhygienic (again, they are ones to talk). The Indian toilet was created because they do not like the idea of “skin-touching surface-touching skin” but why not just squat? She then continued to say that toilet paper is also viewed as unhygienic because it is so dry and that if Indians ever use toilet paper because water is not available, they have to dampen the toilet paper first. EW. Seriously, I am all for embracing other cultures, but that is tooooo far.

Remember back in 2002 when internet was still semi-new and you would receive chain emails all the time from everyone? India is still in that stage. Indians everywhere believe that these chain emails are the coolest thing that has hit the internet – they clearly have never been to stumbleupon.com – but they are constantly spamming my email with them! While at work, my boss makes me watch these pointless PowerPoint’s that have been sent to him of beautiful Arian-like blue-eyed babies smiling and dressed up with some sort of inspirational message at the end. I understand that they are adorable, but you aren’t a 12-year old girl and why every day? The inspirational messages here are everywhere, which at first seem nice but quickly become old. Some of them have been translated directly from English to Hindi back to English and make no sense.

Today, while I was returning from another Sari adventure, I realized what a rickshaw drive is like. Picture yourself sitting in the back of a pickup truck with no sides and no seat belts. Then picture that same pickup truck with a driver who has no shoes on driving down the wrong side of the road with cars coming out you. The road itself has potholes left in right that make you almost fall out, yet you never do. Every once in a while the driver has to swerve to the side to avoid the numerous stray dogs on the street. THAT is what a rickshaw feels like. O, and you might want to add some dirty rain because it is monsoon season. Literally, if the road is too crowded for the drivers liking on the highway, the rickshaw driver will just go onto the other side of the road and start driving while avoiding on-coming traffic. It is a serious rush, one that I prefer not to have every day. The one great thing about rickshaws is that it is extremely inexpensive (never more then $2 USD).

Now I need everyone to think great thoughts for me today (and tonight) that I will find a painting tomorrow! It is essential that I bring a painting home, and I have been searching for the entire trip, and tomorrow is an important art adventure. I NEED TO GET ONE just think positively for me :) Miss you all!

Chilli Cheese Toast -- Indian Grilled Cheese

This was so amazing I had to share the recipe before returning home:

Ingredients:
  • Sliced bread
  • Leftover cheese (ANYTHING you are willing to eat - it can be old, that makes it even better. ex: bree, swiss, cheddar, gruyere, camembert, goat, gorgonzola - literally anything you have)
  • egg
  • red chilli flakes or fresh green chillis (the fresh chillis will be a little more spicy)
1. Toast the bread so it is firm but not yet fully brown
2. Grate the combination of cheeses. Add the egg to the cheese and mix well (depending on how many portions of Chilli Cheese Toast you are making, change the number of eggs. You want an even consistency among the cheese, not like an omelet)
3. Add a teaspoon of red chilli flakes or freshly minced green chilli - mix WELL
4. Top the toasted bread with the cheesy-egg mixture
5. Broil the toast (open faced) until the cheese is bubbling and golden (like french onion soup)
6. Allow time to cool, and dig it! The spicier you like it, the more chilli flakes you add

This is a great recipe to use if you have extra cheese, or just want to spice up the traditional American grilled cheese! Enjoy

Monday, August 2, 2010

August 2nd - What have I been eating?

I finally made it to the place I have always wanted to be: THE KICTHEN! I was given my chef uniform (black checkered pants, a white shirt, a chef’s hat, a hair net, a handkerchief, and black socks) – I looked kind of weird, but still very happy. See attached photos below!

It was so funny, people were not only shocked that I wanted to work in the kitchen but also that I actually wore the uniform! I started the day with the Head Chef of the Hotel, Chef Christopher Stevens, giving me a tour of the 8 kitchens on premises. After the tour, which was ok nothing special, I was directed towards my first cooking lesson and day at the 24/7 5-star buffet restaurant Citrus. Right when I arrived I was learning how to cook!

The Citrus kitchen is located within the restaurant – a live kitchen sort of thing. So every guest that walked into the restaurant can see what we are cooking, or what when I mess up. The chefs were so nice to me and liked that I really wanted to learn the recipes instead of just goofing around. My first dish was an Indonesian recipe called Nasi Goreng: a huge concoction of chicken fried rice, chicken sautĂ©, a fried egg, and peanut sauce. This was really easy to learn and make – perfect drunk food for foodies :) just kidding. But really, there were so many flavors going on that it makes it to die for and really filling.

After I learned how to make the first dish, one of the chefs asked me what my favorite part of cooking was. My reply: tasting everything! Once I said that, I literally tasted every dish that left the kitchen: Indian, Thai, Indonesian, American, Italian, you name it they had it.

My next dish was the cream of mushroom soup with a whipped truffle cream on top. The truffle cream really made this soup set apart from the rest. I then learned in more detail about traditional Indian dishes such as dosa, gravy, chutneys, and paneer. I really enjoyed everything I learned and cannot wait to make them in the USA.

It was hilarious though, because Citrus was a live kitchen all the guest could see me. When the Indian guests came to the restaurant they literally were doing triple takes because they couldn’t believe a white woman was cooking back there for THEM. When Americans would enter the restaurant they would spot me and then, every single one of them came over to talk. They really loved hearing that I was so adventurous to travel to India for my internship ALONE – as a 21 year old….if only they knew.

I then went to the funniest yet scariest information session: personal hygiene. The two hour session was about how to wash your hands – I am being dead serious. When I first realized that the entire session was about hand washing I thought it was so so funny, but then I realized: what have I been touching? Or better yet, what have I been eating?

In the cafeterias there is an entire section to wash your hands. The first two weeks I though, wow Indians are so hygienic. FALSE. Indians eat with their hands (I have already told you this). So as an American I figured they washed their hands before they ate thinking they were better than Americans who only sometimes wash their hands before eating (yet they NEVER touch their food). Boy was I shocked to find out that the sinks in the cafeteria are for AFTER you eat to wash the food off your hands, what is the point of that? You just piled in millions and millions of germs in your mouth and now youa re concerned about what is on your fingers?

Anyway, the session was teaching the staff about this new technique: washing your hands for 20 seconds in warm water and soap, then afterwards use hand sanitizer. Hand sanitizer is a new and really big thing here in India, the Leela just forgot one thing: to teach the staff how to use the sanitizer. The staff thought it was a new kind of soap so they were using hand sanitizer then WASHING it off – basically washing away the affects of the sanitizer. The staff was given mini samples and explained that the sanitizer evaporates into the air and is ok to leave on your hands. At the end of two hours, people were still not fully understanding the concept, or why they even needed to wash their hands.

Once work was over, my friend Peggy took me to go art shopping! The typical Bombay traffic took an extra 1 hour to get to the store, which turned out to be a huge disappointment. I was really upset, but there is always tomorrow (I was reminded by Peggy who swore to me that she would help me find a painting before Saturday). So tomorrow we are off to another market that will definitely have the art I am looking for. The trip though wasn’t a complete waste of time: I was able to go to the liquor store and buy two white Indian wines and a bottle of India’s oldest rum that is only sold in the state I am currently in! I know mom and dad will really enjoy this (or I hope they will!)

Tomorrow I am working in the cold kitchen where I will be learning how to make drinks (non-alcoholic and alcoholic) with fresh fruits and vegetables! I am so excited, once again these are skills I will have and be using forever!


1. Wearing my new chef uniform!
2. notice the checkered pants
3. Shiny's Engagement Sari
4. Shiny's Wedding Sari
5. Shiny's Reception Sari (all of the saris require different bangles - that must be gold for luck - necklaces and shoes)





Sunday, August 1, 2010

August 1st - "Sari" for Shopping

Today was finally my weekly off! I was nice to sleep in, but I didn’t really. I woke up and went straight to the store to buy some breakfast – pomegranates, what I consider to be the breakfast of champions for me in India. The pomegranates looked especially delicious today, so I stocked up! I really have come a long way from when I first arrived in India: not leaving my room the first day and not being able to walk by myself. Now, I am able to catch a rickshaw to and from work, walk to the store, speak some Hindi, bargain down prices, and pick out fresh fruit ALL ON MY OWN! If you told me this was going to happen the first day I landed, I would have laughed in your face. But I truly am proud of myself for being brave enough to try these new things.

Heer (my roommate, here name sounds like “Here” but add in a rolling “r”) and I went to the market today and picked up a wonderful selection of presents for everyone! We started the day with the sari shopping! It was so wonderful. Mom has been bugging me since I landed in India to purchase a sari – and to be honest I was not only hesitant but also not sold on actually buying one. That alllll changed once I walked into the shop. Saris are so beautiful – silk, cotton, a blend the fabric and colors are just beautiful. The salesman was very smart and started dressing me in a sari once I walked inside – I was sold.

I truly thought I was going to buy a sari that was BRIGHT and filled while beautiful patterns. But in India, fair people are thought to look better in darker colors. I really didn’t believe this myth until I tried on a darker sari, again I was sold. Some basic sari knowledge before I go into detail:

There are three pieces to a sari: the sari, the blouse, and the petticoat. The sari is what you think of when you hear sari – the beautiful silk fabric that wraps around a woman. The blouse is the small belly-shirt that women must wear underneath the wrap in order to insure they will not over expose themselves. Lastly, the petticoat is a solid skirt women wear under the wrap – again ensuring they do not overexpose themselves. Wearing a sari is an art, and I have been learning it! You must pleat the wrap and carefully (yet tightly) wrap the body. Your stomach will always be slightly exposed, but if you know how to wear a sari correctly, any woman would look beautiful.

The sari was eggplant purple with black embroidered beads all throughout. The train was a grey and black combination and kind of a zebra pattern – I looked STUNNING, if I may say so myself. The sari is somewhat dark, but let’s be honest: I am only going to be wearing this sari on special occasions and this sari is definitely special. The hand beaded wrap is just gorgeous.

I had trouble deciding which sari to get because I also fell in love with another brunt orange sari with flowers all over it. That was when I realized I loved the sari because I reminded me of my mother – so why no buy her one! I will be able to teach her how to wear it and she will look so beautiful in the color. The two saris (that are being hand tailored to our size as I type) came to a whooping total of $62 USD, I would say that was a great buy.

Once the saris are finished being tailored I will take many many photos of my wearing them!

Next, Heer and I went off to the bangle market! There we showed them the pattern of my newly purchased saris and they were able to whip up combinations in split seconds to match the saris. Beside those, I purchased SO many bangles! Get ready America, you will now hear those close to me coming from a mile away.

After I finished at the bangle market, Heer and I headed over to grab a quick bite to eat. While we were walking, it was very crowded and I had a little bit of a scare. I was grabbed by a group of men and somewhat assaulted (not badly) but enough to make me feel very VERY uncomfortable. At first I was in such shock I didn’t do anything, but then I screamed. Luckily, Heer was very close and whipped around with others around soon to follow. I was very happily surprised to see the defensiveness of the public to me against the men. The men left, but I was still very affected by what they did to me. It was just a shock back to reality: this morning I was just happy to be so independent and then this happened. I was reminded that I am in INDIA and I am an AMERICAN and every can blatantly tell. Needless to say, after this event I stayed very close to Heer and made sure no men were close.

Heer and I grabbed some Vadapow burgers and continued on our way. I then bought so many beautiful shawls that have been embroidered with beads – they are great. If that isn’t retail therapy, I’m not sure what is.

I am not an expert at waving down a rickshaw. You have to be brave (stand in the street) and wave down multiple before convincing a driver that you are worthy of driving. While standing in the street, you have to look out for other car flying by with no speed limit. Today, while I was waving down a rickshaw I realized something: driving in India is one big game of chicken. There are no rules expect for who will let the others go. The traffic lights are totally disregarded except for once a month when a police officer is standing by. So what drivers do is continue to drive through an intersection until either he or the other driver backs down. This would be scary enough in a car, but while sitting in a rickshaw with no door or seatbelts really is terrifying. The rickshaw drivers know that they can squeeze through, but watching as a car is speeding towards you with no intention of stopping is pretty scary.

I was so proud of all my purchases today, and tomorrow I am off to the art market!! Heer showed me how to do a few Indian dance moves to some pop music, I cannot wait to download these songs when I return!

Shiny had a busy day of meeting her future in-laws. As tradition states in India, Shiny was not allowed inside the in-laws house, so they ate lunch at the neighbors place. Shiny has not and will not meet her future husband until the engagement ceremony, but Shiny did say her future mother-in-law is very nice.

A last tidbit: there are three seasons in Bombay: Summer, Winter, and Monsoon. My friends were shocked that I had not heard of monsoon season and really didn’t know what I was talking about when I mentioned Autumn or Spring!

1. Where these stairs would leave you, I have no idea
2. Local temple
3. Street to work
4. Bangle shopping!
5. very concentrated





1. Bracelets!
2. FABRIC
3. Near my house
4. near my house
5. By the sari market






1. where we had to wait online to buy a ticket to walk across the bridge
2. Me and Heer inside the rickshaw after a long day of shopping





1. Another street
2. the outside of a rickshaw - my new favorite form of transportation!
3. street people
4. street people
5. street people






1. Condition of the roads - would you want to walk through that water?
2. More dogs
3. Inside a rickshaw
4. Normal store
5. Shopping street (near my home for food)






1. Typical street
2. another garbage pile -- notice the dogs
3. The group of begger chidlren gathering together after a day of work
4. Another form of protection - glass on the walls
5. DEW TOUR METS INDIA